Red Wines

wines

From one of the most sought-after crus sites today, the G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Ravera opens to a vibrant ruby color. The wine takes its time opening, especially when tasted young, but that delay bodes well for its future bottle evolution. This wine is built like a wall, with each brick representing its own distinct character. There is dark fruit, pressed flower, herb, ebony and a very elegant mineral side. The bouquet is direct and vertical, with lifted intensity over a medium-plus palate. The tannins are elegantly managed, and this wine has the latitude for long cellar aging. It ferments in stainless steel and ages in large oak casks.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPWild berry, dog rose, violet, hay, menthol and spice aromas waft out of the glass on the incredibly fragrant and gorgeous 2021 Ravera from G.D. Vajra. Full-bodied and succulent, the delicious palate delivers raspberry compote, strawberry, baking spice and star anise alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it youthfully tense and balanced. Drink 2031–2046. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is laced with bright red-toned fruit, iron, spice, cedar, tobacco and dried herbs. Bright acids and beams of tannin give the Ravera its distinctively driving feel. Today, the 2021 is a bit sinewy. I suspect it will always remain a vibrant, steely Barolo. The Ravera is a fine choice for readers who appreciate the more savory, mineral side of Barolo.Vinous Media | 95+ VMHarvested around the same time as Bricco delle Viole, the Ravera saw an even longer maceration – 55 days – and slightly more time in wood. All GD Vajra’s Barolo mature in large Slavonian oak casks, allowing site to shine. Reserved to begin with, this reveals tobacco, bay leaf and wet stone. Full and dense with some of the richness that the Bricco delle Viole expresses but ultimately steelier in temperament. Tangy blackcurrant is underscored by a distinct mineral edge. Firm, chiselled tannins build in strength without becoming brawny. Definitely cellarworthy.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThis wine shows aromas of black cherries, fresh violets, thyme and touches of mint and smoke. Relaxing attack on the palate, with firm, dusty yet ripe tannins and crisp acidity. Medium- to full-bodied, it needs time to reach its full potential. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 95 JS

Stunning aromatics lift from the 2021 Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, which pours a jeweled ruby and offers a mix of red and black fruits, an amazing floral perfume, pine, and crushed stones, all well-interwoven. Seamless on the palate, this medium to full-bodied red has a silky mineral texture, with velvety tannins and gorgeous concentration throughout. With long-lasting energy and outstanding purity, it’s hard to resist now and feels as though it will last for the next 15 or more years. This is one of the best wines I have ever tasted from Mimi Casteel.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JD

Another incredibly concentrated, focused, insanely impressive wine in the lineup is the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, which offers a powerful nose of darker currants, scorched earth, graphite, and savory herb aromas and flavors. This full-bodied, dense, concentrated, powerful, inward beauty needs 4-6 years in the cellar but will age forever.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis 2021 La Jota combines 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot. Grapes are sourced from the 8ha La Jota vineyard and 24ha Keyes Estate Vineyard, both atop Howell Mountain. Winemaker Chris Carpenter begins with native yeast fermentations after optical sorting, then pump-overs by hand and pressing at alcohol dryness. The wine goes into a barrel where malolactic fermentation takes place—aged 22 months in 75% new French oak. All of La Jota’s barrels are culled from the centre of France and Navarre, and eight different coopers provide barrels that have mostly medium-plus toasts, with some medium-range toasts for Merlot. After every pressing, Carpenter fills in whatever gaps he feels need filling by leveraging the various oak characters in his barrel toolkit. Readers should note that by the time I tasted the 2021 wines with Carpenter (including the Mt. Brave, Lokoya, and Cardinale wines), they had been decanting for about 5.5 hours. A necessary step if you’re popping corks on this within five years of their release. In 2021, with yields down 30-35%, the La Jota was very precise and focused, with saturated layers of extremely dark fruit nuanced by very expressive ironstone minerality and fresh garrigue. Full-bodied with robust, broad-shouldered tannins that are chocolaty. More of that iron minerality is layered throughout, and for all the fruit density here, there is a balance of freshness that is almost hard to imagine. So, don’t imagine it; snap these up and see for yourself. When I visited with winemaker Chris Carpenter, who oversees production for La Jota, Mt. Brave, Lokoya, and Cardinale, he took the time to explain the distinct difference in his approach to crafting the La Jota and Mt. Brave wines in comparison to the Lokoya single vineyard Cabernets. ’The single-vineyard Lokoya wines are mountain wines that have a good amount of tannin and are in pursuit of the expression of their individual AVA. The tannin is concentrated and differentiates each mountain expression of Cabernet. With La Jota and Mt. Brave, I’m aiming to give the drinker of these wines an understanding of how the mountain expresses itself from an acid, weight, and fruit standpoint without those powerful and ponderous tannins. These wines are culled from blocks in each of the single vineyards that typically have softer tannins, so these are ideal for restaurants or earlier drinking wines. La Jota is owned by the Jackson Family.Decanter | 97 DECSo much black currant, dark fruit, pine cone, bark and pine needle aromas that show a depth and intensity with round, polished and creamy tannins. Medium to full body, with a complex and gorgeously flavored finish. A blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 6.5% cabernet franc, 5% malbec, 4% merlot and 2.5% petit verdot. Over 3050 cases produced. Give this three to four more years to come around.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot in the blend. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a lot of shaking to wake up scents of blackcurrant preserves, plum pudding, and mulberries giving way to a fragrant undercurrent of licorice, charcoal, violets, and menthol. The big, rich, full-bodied palate is completely packed with black fruit layers supported by very firm yet ripe grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with a spicy kick.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIA blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot and 2.5% Petit Verdot, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain delivers scents of cedar, pine, black cherries, blueberries and cassis. According to winemaker Chris Carpenter, the blend was necessary to ameliorate the tannins for the restaurant trade, a major market for the wine. It’s medium to full-bodied, fresh, smooth and silky on the mid-palate, then firmer and more structured, with dusty tannins on the lingering finish. While it should age well for 20 years or more, I suspect much of it will be consumed on the young side, with a thick, well-marbled steak.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA fruit-laden red, with glistening mulberry, cassis and plum puree notes that drive through gleefully, flanked by violet and iris hints, plus a light sheen of anise and apple wood on the finish. Offers latent grip for the cellar. Drink now through 2040. 3,051 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Blended with 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard boasts a deep purple hue as well as a thrilling perfume of blue fruits, graphite, sweet tobacco, and spring flowers. It’s another rich, concentrated, powerful 2021 delivering building, ripe, silky tannins, flawless overall balance, and incredible length on the finish. For the tech sheet geeks out there, this came from multiple blocks, was fermented in a mix of wood and concrete, and spent 22 months in 74% new French oak.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Lithology Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is a very sexy wine. Rich, pliant and super-expressive, the 2021 races across the palate, showing exceptional balance and finesse. Inky dark fruit, crème de cassis, chocolate, new leather, licorice and lavender are beautifully delineated throughout. Bright acids and sweet floral top notes brighten the finish.Vinous Media | 97 VMSo much black currant with terra-cotta and lead pencil. Very intense. Full to medium body, with firm and refined tannins. Like a block. But there is a form and seriousness here that gives this solid tannins and muscles. A blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc.James Suckling | 97 JSThere are 350 cases of the 2021 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, which includes 5% Cabernet Franc. There’s a lively dusting of dried spices and dusty earth over the top of mixed red and black cherries on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is concentrated and elegantly framed by softly dusty tannins that fade away slowly on the lingering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA barrel sample of the Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon reveals an immense wine, well-endowed with powerfully structured tannins and an opulence of inky black fruit with plenty of wild herbs, cedar, coffee-bean and dried floral nuances that are still melding together. I will re-taste in early 2024. Winemaker Matt Sands relayed to me that consultant Michel Rolland thinks that 2021 is “the vintage of the century” for Napa Valley Cabernet.Decanter Magazine | 96 DEC

This seamless, driven, coiled red manages to marry lush notes of black currant, blackberry and fig reduction with burlier accents of walnut, tobacco and warm gravel. Shows an undeniable inner tension but needs considerable time to unfurl. Just when you think you’ve got this figured out, a bolt of cast iron emerges, adding a vibrato echo of terroir that stamps the superlong finish. This is a special wine. Drink now through 2050. 525 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WSOpaque purple-black in color, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon gives up notes of creme de cassis, candied violets, preserved plums, and blueberry pie followed by hints of menthol, fertile loam, tar, and underbrush. The medium to full-bodied palate is so, so tightly wound, with loads of earthy sparks and a fantastic frame of firm grainy tannins, plus amazing tension, finishing with an epic firework display of minerals and savory nuances. Vibrating with latent power and with so much texture interest, this is pure energy! 525 cases were made.The Wine Independent | 99 TWIOne of the greatest wines made in the vintage, as well as probably one of the most age-worthy, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon reveals a dense purple hue to go with quintessential Oakville notes of ripe black fruits, iron, black olive, walnuts, and darker chocolate, with an almost bloody, salty character that develops with time in the glass. It’s a massive, dense, yet majestic Cabernet Sauvignon that has flawless balance, building yet perfectly ripe tannins, and the concentration and overall class to warrant 5-7 years of bottle age and evolve for 40+ years in cold cellars. Hats off to the MacDonald brothers for another incredible, magical wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is dense and potent but also quite structured. Dark fruit, plum, graphite, incense, licorice and lavender are some of the many notes that grace the 2021. Silky, plush red cherry, mocha, rose petal and spice unfurl with time in the glass. This a decidedly mid-weight wine with firm, chalky tannins. Graeme MacDonald backed off extractions a bit in 2021, which suggests a drive towards greater freshness. This is also the first vintage made at the Mending Wall facility, which is quite a bit less cramped than at Kongsgaard, where all the previous wines were made. The 2021 saw 38 days on skins and 22 months in barrel. It is an absolutely gorgeous wine, but it is also more reticent than most vintages at this stage.Vinous Media | 96+ VM

This is a single-vineyard expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Phoenix Vineyard surrounding the Matthiasson winery, situated on an east-facing steep hillside at the base of Mt. Veeder, on a promontory of rare ancient marine shale soils overlooking the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. Texturally and aromatically, it is so different from the Dead Fred Cabernet. This is super light and floral-driven and more like a Nebbiolo. It’s aged in foudre to preserve the fresh fruit quality. Multiple picks ensure ripeness and some are whole cluster pressed. It’s so pretty and pure it’s almost like mineral water that’s been flavoured. The wine has a natural grip and is laser-focused and linear. It is the epitome of elegance and a classy wine in a class of its own. During my tasting with Steve, he added some colour to the Phoenix Vineyard, explaining that it was planted in 1982, with more vines added in the late 1980s. The Cabernet Sauvignon is an old field selection massale from Mt. Veeder, with the oldest vines on AXR rootstock (sadly susceptible to Phylloxera) and next to those grapes, the same selection is grafted to 5BB, a slightly more drought-tolerant rootstock, which handles the hillside. Matthiasson bought the site in 2017, and the farms it organically and without irrigation. A delicious wine that will last for half a century.Decanter Magazine | 99 DECA technically light-bodied wine with delicious ripe fruit, great acid balance and moderate tannins to preserve it for many years while more complexity develops. Red cherries, blackcurrants, bay leaves and baked earth nuances build on the palate and linger on the finish. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JS

The 2021 Malbec originates from a 1932 plot planted in Mainqué, Río Negro, and underwent aging for up to two years in barriques and 500-liter French oak barrels. It was born in the cool and balanced 2021 vintage. Vivid purple-red in hue, the inviting nose reveals delicate notes of fresh plum, elderberry and violet, complemented by hints of chamomile and sweetbriar over a subtle layer of cedar. Dry and juicy, with fine-grained tannins, it stands out as one of the most flavorful Noemías I’ve ever tasted. With an additional year in the bottle, it will become even silkier and deeper. I would love to revisit it in five years.Vinous Media | 98 VM

Blackcurrants and black cherries with lovely flowers on the nose. Medium-bodied with ultra fine tannins that give focus and tension to the wine. Pretty and poised. A little shy now. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JS

This remains one of the best merlots from Italy, even though it was first made in 2019. Violets, tapenade, lavender, blackberries and blueberries. Medium- to full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that give presence and drive. Polished and rather endless. A merlot with structure and polish at the same time. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Sette is 100% Merlot. Lavender, spice, menthol, chocolate, blueberry jam and give this mid-weight Tuscan red a unique profile to complement its mid-weight structure. I would give this a year or two to shed some tannin.Vinous Media | 94 VMSette is the estate’s 100% Merlot which is made from a selection of up to seven available vineyards. In 2021, the grapes come from Sorbaccio and Poggio Sinistro. Really fragrant, it displays aromas and flavours of lavender, menthol, blackcurrant pastille and blue fruits, even a hint of summer meadow, with a splash of coffee bean on the finish. Intense and concentrated, it’s less vertical and saline and instead more broad in comparison to Sette 2020 – but equally delicious.Decanter | 94 DECMade with 100% organic Merlot sourced from across two of the estate’s seven parcels (the Sorbaccio and Poggio Sinistro vineyards), the Tenuta Sette Ponti 2021 Sette is an inky black wine with an almost impenetrable appearance. This is a powerful expression with a bold 15% alcohol content and heavy fruit ripeness to close. There is monotone power here, but this vintage shows a little less in terms of complexity and nuance. This is a good partner to a winter steak. Production is just 4,800 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

All Cabernet Sauvignon from specific hillside blocks on the estate, Shafer’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select spent 28 months in 100% new French oak. It’s a big, ripe wine, weighing in at 15.5% alcohol, but it remains harmonious from front to back. Deep, intense aromas of black cherries and cassis are accented by dried spices on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is rich and textural, showing tremendous intensity and length on the finish. Based on how previous examples have aged, this vintage should drink well through 2050.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPAged 32 months in 100% new French oak. It is quintessentially Stags Leap, with grapes grown on Shafer’s famous Hillside estate vineyard, roughly 25ha, with very shallow volcanic tufa soils. It’s a barrel selection of the very best blocks. A total of 2,900 cases were produced. Such a beautifully balanced wine with tremendous staying power and expressive Stags Leap ironstone minerality with heady sagebrush and conifer notes with white pepper and walnut husk. The wine has an impressive depth of red-toned fruit on the mid-palate framed by tannins that practically dance across the palate, exuding length, tension, and power. Huckleberry and black cherry fruits, black truffle, dried violets, graphite, and salted dark chocolate are all framed by racy acidity, which keeps everything fresh and lifted. The 2021 releases mark Elias Fernandez’s 38th vintage as Shafer’s winemaker. He was hired by John Shafer in 1984, two weeks out of UC Davis.Decanter | 99 DECThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a lot of shaking to bring out notes of crème de cassis, blackberry pie, and kirsch, leading to nuances of dried roses, star anise and cardamom with a hint of cigar box. The full-bodied palate is decadently concentrated with firm grainy tannins and great tension, finishing long with loads of exotic spices and mineral sparks.The Wine Independent | 98As always, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that will spend 28 months in new barrels. Its deep purple hue gives way to a behemoth of a wine that has incredible cassis, black raspberry, and even blue fruits to go with loads of camphor, minty herbs, graphite, and darker chocolate. It’s full-bodied, concentrated, yet pure, flawlessly balanced, and has a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. Floral and vibrant, the 2021 sizzles with tension and a level of delineation I don’t remember seeing in the past. Like all the 2021s here, the Hillside Select possesses notable purity of fruit and exceptional balance. The tannins need to soften a touch, but time should take care of that. I don’t see the opulence or inner sweetness of most years, but that is not a negative at all.Vinous Media | 96-99 VMJuicy and direct, with a solidly built core of cassis and blackberry preserves lined with cocoa, singed tobacco and warm earth hints. Leans toward toasty on the finish, but there’s ample fruit. Best from 2025 through 2038. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,900 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The fresh herbs such as basil and thyme are attractive coupled with currants and blackberries on the nose. Full-bodied with lots of fruit and velvety tannins showing an opulence and Super Tuscan intensity. It needs three to five years to come together. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSDark nose, softly herbal and fragrant, touches of sunkissed ripe fruit - raisins, figs, plums and notes of jasmine and liquorice. Smooth and supple, this has life and energy. Round and intense, with some sweet ripe cherries and blackcurrants, this feels quite a serious wine, structured and with clear muscle on show but still showing refinement in the tannin finesse and overall weight on the palate. Streamlined and focussed with power underneath - reigned in right now but noticeable nonetheless. Nice touches of graphite. and cool blue fruits help offset the sweet ripeness which is evident but this manages to walk the line between the two.Decanter | 95 DECThis is fresh and well-defined by its bracing acidity, driving the black currant, blackberry, herb and spice flavors. Smooth and harmonious, with a line of chalky tannins on the finish, while the herb elements persist. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026 through 2037. 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Lots of violets, cola and blueberries on the nose, complemented by a clay pot note. Fascinating aromatics. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with polished tannins. A cohesive and complete wine that’s angular and incisive, with subtlety, precision and elegance. Lots of personality in each detail. It needs at least four years to soften. But what a wine.James Suckling | 98 JSThis is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2021 Barolo Monvigliero is another step forward for Vietti. Aromatic and lifted, the 2021 is all class. The stems (60%) are evident but not as strong of a marker as they were in the first years. Stylistically, the Monvigliero is closest to the Ravera, with which it shares a taut, mineral-driven personality.Vinous Media | 95 VM

You could argue that this is the wine with the fasting growing quality trajectory because this vineyard site is one of those rare places in the appellation that appears to improve despite (or more likely because of) a changing climate. Ravera enjoys an open panorama (at 400 to 440 meters in elevation) that extends to the snow-capped Alps and benefits from cooler air currents, coupled with an amazing quality of light that you notice with the naked eye. The 2021 Barolo Ravera saw its fruit harvested later than the other wines, on October 11th, and continued with a classic Vietti-style fermentation with 20-plus days of skin contact. Simply put, what Ravera offers is complexity (and strength) with hints of bergamot, citrus, herbs, mineral and salt over a tightly concentrated mouthfeel. The quality of the tannins and the freshness of this 2021 are impressive, and that citrusy note continues with tangerine skin and kumquat. Production is 8,700 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is one of the many standouts in this range from Vietti. Blood orange, chalk, mint, white pepper and slate all infuse the palate with notable persistence. Intensely saline and mineral, the Ravera is not an easy wine, as it is focused and taut rather than immediate. It’s a Barolo that demands a lot from the taster, but it pays that attention back in spades.Vinous Media | 98 VMLimpid and transparent, the 2021 allies vivacity with rigour. Hints of pepper lift red currant blossom and raspberry aromas. Sapid minerals tantalise the palate, which is awash with tangy sumac and succulent blood orange. The cool alpine air is palpable in the racy acidity and linear, chiselled tannins. Structure is still very much in control here but gracious enough to disclose future rewards. Vineyards in Ravera were purchased in 1995, when it was still considered too cold to reliably ripen Nebbiolo, but now this is consistently one of Vietti’s top bottlings.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECProtective and precise style here. Blood-orange and floral bouquet, restrained if not reductive, with cherry candy and chocolatey depth. Smooth attack to the palate with medium body, assertive acidity and refined tannins that turn dustier on the finish. Overall juicy and fresh, yet slightly stern. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS

A wine that’s going to flirt with perfection, the 2022 Château Calon Ségur is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, harvested between September 12 and 26, from yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare. Its deep purple hue is followed by a heavenly bouquet of cassis, smoke tobacco, flowery incense, and toasted spices. This ripe, sexy, full-bodied beauty has ultra-fine tannins, a layered, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, and a great finish. Its tannins, as well as its overall balance and purity, are just about off the charts, and this remarkable effort shows how successful the northern part of the Médoc was in 2022. Bravo!Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe 2022 Calon-Ségur is another superb wine from this historic Saint-Estèphe third growth that began a comprehensive renaissance the better part of a decade ago. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with hints of fresh mint, burning embers, licorice and violets, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, supple tannins and a long, saline finish. The blend consists of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Vincent Millet observed that "when you tasted the Merlot, you were under the impression that you were tasting Cabernet."Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPRich and vibrant on the nose, smells concentrated and alcoholic. Crisp and clean on the palate however with bite to the cherry, plum and blackcurrant fruit alongside a hint of sweet strawberry and herbal raspberry on the mid palate that gives some instant energy before the clear concentration and heft of the wine shows through. Not so much in the texture but in the ripe flavours, cool minty and stone edged tannins and clear liquorice and clove spice. Still taught but detailed with elements of generosity. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.65pH. A yield of 26hl/ha. Ageing 17 months, 30% new oak.Decanter | 96 DECA very juicy red with redcurrant and creme de cassis as well as hints of nutmeg and cloves. It’s full and polished with very pretty tannins that show length and focus. Traditional and typical for Calon with the tannin structure. A little closed today. But serious structure.James Suckling | 95-96 JSThe 2022 Calon Segur is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it erupts from the glass with powerful scents of creme de cassis, blackberry preserves, and fruitcake, leading to touches of wild sage, smoked meats, Chinese five spice, and camphor with a waft of graphite. The full-bodied palate is super concentrated and hedonic, delivering impactful black and blue fruit preserves layers with a velvety texture and lively backbone, finishing with long lingering exotic spice notes. It’s big, sure, but it is also very bright and energetic. The alcohol is 15% and the pH 3.8.The Wine Independent | 95-97+ TWIThe 2022 Calon-Ségur was cropped at 26hL/ha compared to 36hL/ha last year. Matured for 20 months in new oak, it has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco scents. The 2022 is tight at first but opens with aeration (winemaker Vincent Millet remarked how the wine was much more expressive the week I tasted it in mid-April compared to the previous week). The palate is classically styled with impressive mid-palate depth. With strict tannins and multi-layered graphite-infused black fruit, this is reminiscent of some postwar Calon-Ségur’s I have tasted. I wonder if slightly less vin de presse would have been better? Uncompromising, perhaps that might be its virtue, but it means that patience will be required.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2022 Château Clinet showed beautifully, with an almost Médoc-like style in its darker cassis, graphite, cedar pencil, and tobacco aromas and flavors. Full-bodied on the palate, it has ripe, velvety tannins, a round, layered mouthfeel, and remarkable purity. Pomerol was one of the erratic appellations in 2022, but this beauty does everything right and brings a beautiful mix of richness and elegance. It should round into form with just short-term bottle age and evolve for two decades. The blend is the usual 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDStreamlined and sleek, silky smooth but also gorgeously textured, clean and clear with grip and interest. Less fleshy and chewy than some, more charming and elegant with tannins that have a weight in the mouth. There is clear power and concentration underneath the juicy acidity with a straight backbone and direct energy from start to finish. Appealing layers of salinity, blackcurrant fruit, creamy vanilla, cool cola touches and crushed stones on the finish. Feels well made and sophisticated. 3.74pH. A yield of 34hl/ha. Earliest harvest ever starting on 6 September for Merlot and 20 and 21 September for Cabernet Sauvignon.Decanter | 96 DECA blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon that represents the earliest harvest in this estate’s history (beginning on September 6), the 2022 Clinet is a success, offering up aromas of cherries and dark berries mingled with hints of spices and a discreet patina of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it’s impressively vibrant, with a rich core of fruit framed by powdery tannins from judicious extraction. This has more in common with the more refined 2018 and 2019 vintages at this address than with the powerhouse 2020, and that is no mean feat in an even more extreme vintage. Bravo to Ronan Laborde and his team.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe 2022 Clinet is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon picked from 6-21 September at around 34hL/ha. There were apparently many bunches, but the berries were small. Aged in 80% new oak and 20% 2nd fill barrels, the 2022 offers black fruit on the nose with traces of Japanese nori probably emanating from the Cabernet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and a fine backbone that gently grips the mouth. This is a linear Pomerol with impressive delineation on the almost pastille-like finish. I appreciate this Clinet’s persistence and discrete spiciness on the aftertaste. Excellent. But it is a vintage that requires time in bottle.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA very fine and polished red with silky tannins, medium body and a savory finish. Hints of hazelnut to the currant and berry fruit.James Suckling | 94-95 JSThe 2022 Clinet is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aging in 80% new oak. It was harvested from harvest from the 6th to the 21st of September and yields were 34 hl/ha. Deep garnet-purple in color, it storms out of the glass with powerful notes of plum preserves, crème de cassis, and boysenberries, leading with suggestions of sandalwood, mossy tree bark, sassafras, and mocha with a waft of tar. The full-bodied palate is rich and densely laden with black fruit preserves, supported by firm, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and opulent. This is a wonderfully decadent wine that will be very long-lived but will require some patience.The Wine Independent | 94-96+ TWI

Tasted on multiple occasions, the 2022 Domaine De Chevalier is beautiful, with a 2009-like style in its spicy red and black fruits, tobacco, new leather, and graphite-driven aromas and flavors. These carry to a medium to full-bodied Chevalier that has a supple, layered mouthfeel, beautifully polished tannins, and just about flawless balance. It’s not massive or over the top in any way and excels on its balance and complexity. Based on 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, drink this seamless, sexy, already approachable 2022 over the coming 30-40 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis is extremely long and polished with beautiful silky tannins that keep rolling down the palate. Medium-bodied, it shows currants, blackberries, minerals and crushed stones. Crunchy. Such finesse and structure at the same time. An honest and transparent wine with greatness. Drink after 2029.James Suckling | 98 JSCommemorating his 40th harvest at the helm of the estate, Olivier Bernard has crafted a wine of abundant promise. Evoking aromas of dark wild berries, spices, smoke and licorice, framed by a deft touch of new oak, the 2022 Domaine de Chevalier possesses a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich palate, with an elegant, fleshy core of fruit, abundant powdery tannins and a long, delicate and dark berry-inflected finish. Noticeably less toasty and spicy than in the previous year, this estate has positively evolved in style. Matured for 18 months in a combination of new (35%) and used barrels, the 2022 is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2022 Domaine de Chevalier bursts from the glass with enticing blackberry, incense and blueberry aromas that do not hold back. Despite the intensity, it retains superb delineation and focus, with beautifully integrated oak. The medium-bodied palate is packed with black fruit laced with graphite and a dash of black pepper. Very well balanced, it is unequivocally one of the most powerful wines I have encountered from Domaine de Chevalier without compromising its classicism. This is outstanding.Vinous Media | 96 VMSports a wonderfully polished core of cassis and cherry reduction, while the vintage’s telltale notes of warm cast iron, bay and tobacco fill in throughout. Violet and singed chestnut accents check in for added range and length. A pure, deep, lengthy and authoritative expression of Péssac. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2028 through 2042. 9,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSDark, brooding, perfumed nose of liquorice, bitter chocolate and blackcurrants. Juicy and filling, with wonderful texture, depth and balance. Salty, mineral finish with crisp edges adding tension. Smooth yet structured, with acidity and texture in harmony. A delicious, ready-to-drink wine that shouldn’t be missed.Decanter | 96 DECAcquired by the Bernard family 40 years ago, the property produced a rich wine with powerful tannins. It has structure as well as black fruits. The estate is performing well. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEA blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with show-stopping scents of wild blueberries, black raspberries, and redcurrant preserves, leading to suggestions of candied violets, cinnamon stick, and fragrant soil. The medium to full-bodied palate is elegantly styled, with bright, nuanced black and red berry layers beautifully supported by fine-grained tannins and wonderful tension, leading to a very long and perfumed finish on this stunning wine. pH 3.64.The Wine Independent | 96-98 TWI

From the oldest vines of the estate, the 2022 Pinot Noir DuMOL Ryan is fantastic on the nose, with notes of fresh leather, Asian spices, sandalwood, and fresh cherries. The palate is vibrant and salty with green valley character, revealing finely coiled tannins, mouthwatering acidity, a saline mineral flourish, and a long finish. This one of the most compelling wines in the vintage for me, and it’s going to age gracefully over the next 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis is all destemmed but shows a stem and fresh herb character, with strawberries, blueberries and briary bramble berries. It’s medium-bodied with a deepness of fruit and tight, compacted palate. Terrific structure. 50% Martini clone with the rest Calera and Swan. Needs two or three years to soften and open.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2022 Pinot Noir Ryan comes from the Dutton-Widdoes and Dutton-Jentoft Vineyards, and grapes were harvested August 18 and later on September 4, just before the Labor Day heat wave. It unfurls dramatically in the glass, where wild berries, conifer and violets are accented by tones of dusty earth, tobacco and mushroom. The medium-bodied palate is powerfully styled, with abundant, grainy tannins, bright acidity and a long, spicy finish. It will benefit from 3-5 years in bottle. 1,005 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPMedium ruby-purple in color, the 2022 Pinot Noir Ryan sashays out of the glass with gregarious notes of red roses, wild sage, mulberries, and juicy raspberries plus hints of black peppercorns and tilled soil. The medium-bodied palate is taut with muscular red and black berry layers, supported by fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and earthy. This comes 53% from the Dutton-Widdoes Vineyard and 47% from Dutton-Jentoft.The Wine Independent | 95 TWIThe 2022 Pinot Noir Ryan is a very pretty, delicate wine. Crushed flowers, red berry fruit, mint and white pepper lend notable aromatic brightness and lift. The Ryan offers lovely precision and nuance in an understated, appealing style. Ryan is a blend of fruit from Widdoes and Jentoft, two of the most singular vineyards in Sonoma.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The more ethereal and mineral-tinged of the two Altamira single-plot bottlings, the 2022 Jardín de Hormigas Los Amantes hails from limestone gravel soils with less topsoil than the Meteroa bottling. It leads with an expressive yet coiled nose that dynamically gains dimension with every swirl. While also exuding the floral, lifted bouquet typical of Altamira, there is austerity and focus here that sets it apart from the Meteora bottling. This difference is fully realized on the palate, where a compelling combination of sleek, polished focus and mineral-drenched lift releases into a soaring, discreetly juicy finish that lingers with crushed-stone nuances, managing a completeness that is rare in such overtly mineral-driven wines, which can easily feel like they are lacking depth. That couldn’t be farther from the case here. This is a stunning, definitive and transparent example of Altamira Malbec rendered in high definition.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP

Wow. Blackcurrants, blueberries, blackberries and flowers. Full-bodied with beautifully integrated tannins that melt into the wine. Persistent and precise. A fantastic wine for the cellar. 66% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot.James Suckling | 98-99 JSBlackcurrant and bramble fruit with savoury herbal nuances on the nose, this smells rich and potent. Tense and focussed, compact from the get go, present tannins give grip and hold. This is definitely not out to charm, more serious, stern and focussed but there’s such overall precision. This is in high definition, supremely controlled and well worked with mouthfilling ripe tannins. I like the chewy aspect and there’s balancing acidity, hidden now by the density, that will sustain the wine for decades to come. Floral notes and some minerality come through giving the nuance so it’s not all heft, but there’s clear muscle on show. A long finish gives the sense of structure and style. An impressive wine. 95 IPT. 3.71pH. Ageing 18 months, 75% new oak. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 4.1 g/L total acidity. Harvest 12 September - 24 September.Decanter | 97 DECThe Grand Vin 2022 Château Lynch Bages checks in as 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. It actually reminds me slightly of the 2019, and while it’s a classic Lynch Bages powerhouse, it has beautiful balance and purity. Cassis, graphite, lead pencil, and chalky minerality all define the aromatics, and it’s full-bodied, with terrific tannins and a layered, incredibly impressive profile that continues to open and evolve with time in the glass. Tasted twice with consistent notes.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98+ JDThe 2022 Lynch-Bages was picked 12 September, around 15 days earlier than usual until 24 September at around 35hL/ha. Aged for 18 months in 75% new oak, it has a backward nose that demands a lot of encouragement. This is not as immediate as the 2016 or 2019 at the same stage. Powerful blackberry and boysenberry fruit, cedar and light tobacco notes, this feels like an edifice of aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, beautifully balanced, very harmonious yet there is an enormous backbone here that (again) is reminiscent of Mouton. Extremely long on the finish, this will need its barrel maturation to fully knit together and it is going to be a Pauillac for the long haul.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe 2022 Lynch-Bages is composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it is a little closed to start, soon revealing evocative creme de cassis, blueberry pie, and chocolate-covered cherries notes with suggestions of cast-iron pan, black truffles, and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut with muscular black fruit and loads of mineral sparks, framed by very firm, grainy tannins and a refreshing line, finishing long and earthy. pH 3.71, TPI 95.The Wine Independent | 95-97 TWIOne of the vintage’s most powerful, muscular wines is the 2022 Lynch-Bages, a full-bodied, broad-shouldered Pauillac that unfurls in the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries, mint, pencil shavings and petroleum jelly, framed by nicely integrated new oak. Liberally extracted, its deep core of fruit is underpinned by an imposing chassis of rich, powdery tannin and lively acids. Always rather forbidding from barrel, Lynch Bages always seems to come together in bottle, and the 2022 has the makings of another success for this address.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP

So much class in the nose with a sophisticated kaleidoscope of dark fruit such as blackcurrants, and spices such as salt and pepper, as well as cloves and nutmeg. Full-bodied. Compacted and dense yet weightless. It opens beautifully. The tannins go on and on with wonderful presence. Salty undertones.James Suckling | 98-99 JSThe 2022 Château Palmer is utterly brilliant, so much so that I questioned in my notes if this would challenge the 2018. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, from tiny yields of 22 hectoliters per hectare, its mammoth-sized personality offers layers of blue and black fruits, notes of melted chocolate, crushed stone, and spring flowers, building, velvety tannins, and a great, great finish. While many estates commented that they extracted less in the vintage, Palmer went in a different direction and extracted more during the vinifications to provide a solid backbone to match the concentration and power of the vintage. It appears to have worked brilliantly, and hats off to Thomas Duroux for having the confidence to go his own path. He has produced a truly Grand Vin in 2022. The alcohol here is a normal 14.4%, and the pH is a healthy 3.79.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDSharp, energetic, racy and electric. The power and concentration is evident in the dark, rich, concentrated fruit with tannins that grip and take hold with a crushed stone texture, liquorice, graphite, tobacco and cool mint spice. The expression is exceptionally delineated with focus and push from start to finish. Quite bold and charged, but I love the succulence, the perfumed fruit, chalky sensation and overall sense of confidence. In high definition in terms of sharpness and tang to the fruit. A big wine but delivered with poise. 3.79pH. 13% press wine. Harvest took one month from 7 September to 5 October. 70% grand vin, 30% Alter Ego.Decanter | 97 DECThe 2022 Palmer was cropped at just 22hL/ha due to the berries being 25-30% smaller than usual. It bursts forth on the nose with precocious black cherries, blueberry, violet and touches of marmalade and tobacco in the background. Complex and expressive. The palate is structured, with the tannic backbone, that winemaker Thomas Duroux talked about, lending this Palmer a sense of verticality. Hints of black pepper emerge with time, multi-layered, a powerful Margaux and yet the IPT is actually lower than elsewhere (76). Quite linear on the tobacco-infused finish, which is just quintessential Palmer. Do reserve a bin in your cellar for this and let it gather dust for at least a decade. 14.4% alcohol.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMComposed of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2022 Palmer is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a lot of shaking and swirling to lure out a soft-spoken perfume of roses, lavender, star anise, and cloves, leading to a profound core of Morello cherries, fresh, juicy blackberries, and blackcurrant cordial. The full-bodied palate is stacked with layer upon layer of black, blue, and red fruits, supported by a skyscraper structure of very firm, very ripe, grainy tannins and superb tension, finishing with epic length and depth. This is a monumental achievement. pH 3.79.The Wine Independent | 96-98+ TWIAs is the case at neighbor Château Margaux, the 2022 Palmer is one of the most powerful wines this estate has ever produced. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, it offers up aromas of blackberries, burning embers, violets, iris and sweet soil tones, followed by a full-bodied, broad and expansive palate, its velvety attack segueing into a rich and layered core. Supple, seamless and concentrated, it checks in at 14.4% alcohol and a rather high pH of 3.79.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP

This is an powerful white with superb density and phenolic muscule. It’s full-bodied and really impressive. Opulent and rounded. Exotic and muscular. Great white. Feels like a great Montrachet. One for the cellar. 8,000 bottles made. pH 3.18.James Suckling | 99-100 JSI’d say the finest white coming out of the Médoc, and clearly in the top tier of whites in all of Bordeaux, the 2022 Pavillon Blanc De Margaux is, as always, 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was raised in 20% new 300-ltier barrels. It has an incredible nose of honeyed limes, caramelized lemon zest, green almonds, mint, and crushed stone. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has a great mid-palate, vibrant acidity, and a great finish. Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t get much better (if at all.)Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDSmells ripe full of green apples, peach, orange, lime and lemon curd. Intense, depth and weight straight away with mouthwatering acidity, razor like, supporting the texture. There’s fatness but because of the acidity it doesn’t stand out in a bad way, and the acidity is sharp and cooling which comes across as quite thrilling. Well worked, round with both drive and tension. Gorgeous white stone and citrus fruits, delicate but deep and sustained with shots of sharp lemon, sweet peach, blood orange and grapefruit. Fresh and fun. A success. Harvest 18 September.Decanter | 96 DECAn impressively vibrant wine for this warm vintage, the 2022 Pavillon Blanc offers up inviting aromas of sweet gooseberries, mango, lemongrass and pastry cream, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate that’s bright and nicely concentrated, concluding with a finish marked by elegantly mordant dry extract. Harvest for Sauvignon Blanc began on 18 August at Château Margaux.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-94 RPThe 2022 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, with very tiny yields this year of only 14 hl/ha. It waltzes out with gregarious notes of fresh peaches, green mango, and lime cordial with fragrant wafts of jasmine, chalk dust, and sea spray. The medium-bodied palate is coated with citrus and tropical fruit layers with expressive chalky sparks and a long zesty finish.The Wine Independent | 93-95 TWIOn the palate, the 2022 Pavillon Blanc retains terrific freshness and is done in a style that lies somewhere in between more generous years such as 2018, 2019 and 2020, and the more saline years like 2017 and 2021. This is a very creamy, layered dry white. Here, too, I am struck by the wine’s precision.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

This is amazing on the nose with dried strawberries, sandalwood, mahogany and tea leaf. Iron and rust underneath the fruit. Dried flowers, nutmeg and rose petals. Full-bodied yet agile and energetic with layers of fine dusty tannins. Entrancing finish. Give this four or five years in the bottle, but it’s hard not to drink.James Suckling | 98 JSRaen uses all whole clusters across the red wines. The smoky aromatics and pungent floral aromas of this wine are about the microflora of the vineyard. All native yeasts, unfiltered and unfined, with 10% new oak, crushed violets and stone, andsmoky clove aromas. Dark fruits that dance lightly across the tongue. Black tea, and pomegranate pulp are brighten by a squeeze of blood orange. The finish is lifted by white pepper and Chinese five spice. Seafield and Bodega vineyards comprise this wine dedicated to Robert Mondavi. (Tasted from bottle 15225.)Decanter | 97 DECThe 2022 Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert is striking. Vibrant and savory, the 2022 marries notable fruit intensity with strong floral, earthy and savory top notes. Bright red-toned fruit, orange peel, cinnamon, star anise and cedar lift from the glass. Deep and dense, yet also wonderfully crystalline, the 2022 is lights out. What a wine.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2022 Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert comes from a ten-acre vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and pours a rich ruby hue. It reveals lovely, perfumed notes of framboise, mossy earth, tea leaf, and roses that lead to a medium-bodied red that’s pure and elegant all the way through, remaining pure and complex, with fine tannins and a lovely, balanced spice through the elegant finish. It’s fantastic now but will drink well over the coming 8-10 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDGrapes for the 2022 Pinot Noir Royal St. Robert were harvested on September 5. It has layered aromas of rhubarb, blackberry, tea leaves, bitters and earth. The light-bodied palate is silky, fresh and elegantly styled with detailed fruit and a long, spicy finish. 1,800 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThis shows character, with sage, pepper and chaparral notes peeking out from its core of blood orange and damson plum fruit. A singed balsam wood element frames the finish. Best from 2025 through 2031. 1,950 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2022 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was one of Realm’s first harvests that year, coming in just before the early September heat hit. The blend is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple colored, it shoots from the glass with bold notes of fresh blackberries and blackcurrants, plus hints of crushed rocks, dried sage, and fragrant earth. The medium to full-bodied palate is electric with black fruit and mineral layers, supported by firm, grainy tannins and incredible tension, finishing long and earthy. This is on the crunchier side of Dr. Crane fruit, and I love it!The Wine Independent | 99 TWIThe 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard is terrific. It shows the natural richness of the year, but its balance is better vis-à-vis the To Kalon, as evidenced by the lifted, bright aromatics and mid-palate pliancy. I admire the energy and vibrancy here. Rose petal, lavender, spice and blood orange are beautifully amplified. Bright acids pull it all together on the close. The Dr. Crane is one the finer wines in the range this year.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Plenty of red currant, cedar, iron and terra cotta aromas follow through to a medium to full body with graphite, sandalwood, red currants and fresh Mediterranean herbs such as thyme and rosemary. The tannins are chewy but polished in texture. This is a Sassicaia that needs three or four years of bottle age to come together and soften. A structured wine for the cellar. Try after 2029.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2022 Sassicaia is simply brilliant in this vintage, showing a remarkable level of poise and freshness. It opens with a captivating bouquet of ripe blackberries, plum, florals and subtle herbs, underscored by a touch of spice, tobacco and minerals. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied and well-structured, with velvety tannins and a lively acidity that provides perfect balance. Rich flavors of red/dark fruits, tobacco and spices unfold beautifully, leading to a long, persistent finish that is both refined and elegant. A stunning example of Sassicaia’s pedigree and resilience to thrive year after year.International Wine Report | 98 IWRThe Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia reveals a beautiful fruit profile with fresh blackberry, tart cherry and Mediterranean tones of blue rosemary blooms and lavender sachet. I tasted this wine several times over the course of a few months, and it has already shown a happy evolution coming into slow focus like the faint colors that emerge from a Polaroid photograph. Indeed, the bouquet appeared more closed just a short while ago. The wine’s strongest suit is its elegantly streamlined mouthfeel and its contained 13.5% alcohol content. These qualities add to the silky cleanness of the mouthfeel and the accessible freshness of this vintage. I am confident that this bottle will improve with time. It requires patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe wine is tightly coiled and concentrated. It feels almost cinched at the waist, with a fascinating tension between the weight of raspberry, blackberry and strawberry coulis fruit and the wine’s verticality, as if it’s trying to burst out. Lovely mid-palate sapidity is allied to fresh acidity and fine but dense tannins, making for a dark horse of a Sassicaia that isn’t giving much away today but will greatly reward those who can cellar it for 12 years and more. ‘What is sure is that 2022 will need a lot of time, but will also have a long life,’ said Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta. A hot vintage, 2022 caused the team to work in the newly completed refrigerated warehouses in San Guido, even moving the sorting table inside. Shorter macerations and 23 rather than the more typical 24 or 25 months of ageing in wood helped to maximise the freshness.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECOpening with aromas of menthol, dark spice, blue flower and dark-skinned berry, the 2022 Sassicaia is impressive and defied my expectations. Hailing from what was a notoriously hot, dry year, the estate’s location, including its hillside vineyards, vicinity to the woods plus much-needed rain in August preserved freshness and aromas as did harvesting somewhat earlier than usual, shorter skin maceration and slightly less time in oak. Showing elegant restraint, it’s balanced and tense, delivering flavors of ripe blackberry, wild cherry, licorice and mint. It’s still quite tight and youthfully austere, with a backbone of firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Give it time to fully unwind. Drink 2030–2042. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2022 Sassicaia is a very pretty, expressive wine. There’s a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (and less Franc) in this year’s blend, and that really comes through in the wine’s flavor profile and slightly bruising tannins. Dark cherry, plum, leather, licorice, graphite and incense give the 2022 striking aromatic presence to match its rather brooding personality. There’s a bit of tension in the tannins that needs time to resolve. Yields were down about 20% because of intensely cold weather in spring, variable conditions during flowering and set, and then searing heat and drought throughout the summer.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

There’s a purity and beauty to this that impresses you the minute you put your nose in the glass. So aromatic. Flowers, graphite, blackcurrants and hints of gunmetal. Medium- to full-bodied with tannins that coat your mouth but give a feeling of fine cashmere. The length and intensity is calm but rather endless. 45% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon,10% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. From organically grown grapes. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSOreno has transformed from a wine based on 50% Sangiovese in 2008 to a wine which completely omits the Tuscan varietal in favour of an international blend. In 2022, the percentage of Petit Verdot tops out at 15% – around 5% more than normal – because the hot and dry vintage resulted in very good quality berries of the minor Bordeaux variety. Is it better than the 2021? Tasting both together, the 2021 is richer and sturdier, while 2022 is more immediately accessible: pure, ripe and intense, it displays vibrant red and black berries along with a streak of balsamic herbs and tangy pomegranate. It has wonderful verticality, with a soft and fleshy core and super-fresh edges, supported by sweet, grippy tannins and some creamy wood. Aged in light- and medium-toast barriques, I’m told the proportion of new oak is being reduced.Decanter | 95 DECMade with 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, all organically farmed, the 2022 Oreno is a lovely red that boasts structure and finesse. It opens with enticing scents recalling red currant, lavender, eucalyptus and dark exotic spice. Elegantly structured and savory, the full-bodied palate delivers raspberry jam, cocoa, licorice and tobacco lifted by a note recalling spiced orange peel. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide seamless support. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2022 Oreno has come together nicely since I last tasted it a few months ago. Floral and medium in body, the 2022 comes across as somewhat restrained in feel, although the racy, ripe style of the year is evident in its red-toned fruit profile. Pomegranate, cinnamon and a kick of blood orange develop in the glass, adding freshness and dynamic energy.Vinous Media | 92 VMLush and fruity, offering a core of cherry, black currant and blackberry flavors shaded by spice and graphite accents. A firm version, with medium density and a long, fresh finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2030. 1,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS