Page 28 - Blog

My favorite duty as a Sokolin Wine Consultant is to sample wines that are unique, rare or limited in production. This week, I had the pleasure of experiencing a new arrival, the 2011 Calder Charbono Meyers Vineyard. I was quite excited to taste an almost extinct grape. 

The 2011 Calder is 100% Charbono.  Charbono, also known as Douce Noir which translates as “sweet black”, is known for growing in the Savoie wine region of France.  What was once the most widely grown red grape in Eastern France and a California favorite is now only grown in small amounts in Argentina, Piedmont and on 70 hectares in California. Why has such a historically prominent grape been reduced to such small plots of land? Producers have learned over the years that there is not much of a market for this scarce grape, but those drinkers who enjoy it hold it on a pedestal, as they would with cult wines.

The hottest releases currently in the wine market easily have to be the long-awaited 2010 Brunellos. It is a vintage many producers describe as “perfect”, a “dream”, and the “vintage of a lifetime.” After frequent rains in spring (which ultimately would assist in feeding the vines for the remainder of the year) pushed back the beginning of veraison a bit, a long and stable summer followed. According to the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, this allowed “a harmonious development of the phenolic and sugar ripening” and “extremely high levels of total polyphenols, anthocyanins and extract rarely found in” Sangiovese.  In short, this created complex wines with wonderful perfumes, solid structure, great balance and the ability to be enjoyed young as well as age. The first of the 2010s to arrive for us here at Sokolin was the Gianni

Sunday evenings have become a really special time in my household. Whether we are able to host family and friends or it is an evening for two, my husband and I set aside a couple of hours to enjoy what has quickly become a new tradition – Downton Night! We carefully select the appetizers or snacks to be served and choose a bottle of wine or two to share. There is some debate as to whether the party really starts when the cork is popped or when dramatic music and the sight of a yellow Labrador Retriever walking toward a castle fill the screen – I like to think it is a happy combination of both.

For the most recent episode, it was TV for two so we decided on an old favorite – popcorn misted with olive oil and sprinkled with garlic salt, pepper and parmesan. I pulled a bottle from a recently purchased mixed case, one I thought would complement the savory, cheesy popcorn to perfection. The 2010

As cold weather approached this weekend, I was thinking about drinking something that would not only pair well with the hearty meal I was preparing, but would pair well with my soul.  Then it hit me!  A warm California Cabernet Sauvignon. Truly heavy enough to warm me up and charming enough to take me away to the hills of Sonoma and forget about this cold weather.  So I chose the 2012 Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Bucklin Old Hill ranch is the oldest ranch in Sonoma County and dates back all the way to 1885.  Some of the original vines are still producing to this day.  Otto and Anne Teller purchased the Old Ranch in 1981 and the four siblings are now running the winery since 2000, creating some of the finest wines in Sonoma County.  With the help of Will Bucklin training at the famous Lafite Rothschild, his style sure shows through in his wines.  One of the most interesting aspects of this vineyard is that they do not water the

Coming from an eight-acre parcel of Fourchaume Premier Cru that is directly next to the Grand Cru Les Preuses, it’s no surprise the Vaulorent is considered the "baby Grand Cru" at Fevre, and it consistently outperforms Grand Crus that cost many times more. 

William Fevre continues to be one of the premier Chablis producers today, second only to Raveneau and Dauvissat. Thankfully, the wines of William Fevre are much more available than the others, especially the Grand Crus. Last night I had the opportunity to sample the 2012 Vaulorent, pairing it with a traditional French dish, chicken francaise. For me, this offering never fails to deliver. Layered and rich, oyster shells coupled with explosive mineral characteristics. It complemented this dish with perfection. Always affordable, this Premier Cru could easily be mistaken for a Grand Cru. Scoop some up and see for yourself.  

2012

Henri Boillot is a 5th generation vigneron whose family has been farming in the Cote d’Or since 1885. In 2005, he bought out his brother and sister and changed the name of the estate from Domaine Jean Boillot to Domaine Henri Boillot to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot. The domaine has about 14-15 hectares under vine in Cote de Beaune, fairly evenly split between white and red, a majority of the best reds being mostly 1er Crus in Volnay. 

Les Caillerets is considered by most to be one of the finest 1er Crus of Volnay. Historically, it was given the highest Tete de Cuvee status by Jules Lavalle in his 1855 Histoire et Statistique et des Grands Vins, and Camille Rodier in his 1920 Le Vin de Bourgogne. More recently, Jasper Morris MW classified it as one of four Exceptional 1er Crus, and Clive Coates MW said it was one of five climats “a head or so above the rest…of course.”

Jean-Marc Blain met his wife Claudine Gagnard while they were both studying Oenology in Dijon. They both come from a long line of grape growers and producers.  Jean-Marc’s family is from Sancerre where his family owns and operates a vineyard.  Claudine’s grandfather was Edmond Delagrange, and it is through him and her parents, Jacques and Josephe Gagnard, that they inherited about 75% of their vineyards.  After spending time at vineyards in Australia and New Zealand, their son, Marc-Antonin, now spends his time at the Domaine helping out.

Jean-Marc and Claudine currently have vines planted in three Grand Cru sites, including Le Montrachet, and 4 Premier Cru sites, one of those being La Boudriotte, which I had the pleasure of trying.  La Boudriotte is a subsection of Mourgeot in Chassagne-Montrachet and can typically yield a more full-bodied wine than some of his other sites.  However, the vintage always plays a part in that as well.

2010

California has been producing fantastic Chardonnay and Cabernet for years, and I think it’s time for Pinot Noir to join the mix.  The Neely family purchased the Spring Ridge property in 1995 and had the forethought to plant Pinot Noir grapes to expand their vineyard.  After discovering the benefits of the climate and the property’s protection from extreme weather, the Neely family decided to plant their first block of Pinot Noir in 1997 to an already established rootstock that has been there since 1981.

With the help of famed wine producer Bob Varner, who also produces Varner Chardonnay, they were able to produce stunning Pinot Noir wines by using only estate grown grapes from the Spring Ridge property.  The 2011 Neely Pinot Noir Upper Picnic Spring Ridge Vineyard is definitely a wine you don’t want to miss. 

My family and I decided to pop a bottle of the 2011 Neely Pinot Noir Upper Picnic Spring Ridge Vineyard with friends for a holiday

Almost everyone knows James Bond's famous line, "shaken, not stirred," obviously how he prefers his martini, not wine.  But believe it or not, in the original books written by Ian Fleming, James Bond actually enjoys Champagne more often than martinis.  And what was his Champagne of choice?  Bollinger, one of the Champagne region's greatest family owned Champagne houses. 

Champagne Bollinger, founded in 1829, is one of Champagne's few remaining family-owned Grande Marque houses.  Their Special Cuvée is the result of the delicate blending between harvest grapes and a majority of reserve wines, including some aged in magnums for more than 15 years in Bollinger's cellars before they are blended into the final cuvee.

Cellar aged for more than twice the time required by the appellation, it is a magnificent

Chateau Canon has a long history in St Emilion, dating back to the early 18th century, including a period of disrepair and neglect. Saved from this fate by the Wertheimer family, who also own Rauzan Segla in Margaux, and manager John Kolasa, Canon now enjoys the reputation as one of the finest properties in the region and one of the most fascinating for visitors. In addition to seeing completely restored structures and vineyards, tourists can walk through caves below the property and pass to those under adjoining Clos Fourtet and  Beau-Sejour Becot. The properties are literally separated by gates alone on this level!

Just as fascinating is the wine they produce, known to be a muscular, masculine style intended for long cellaring. Keeping this in mind, I selected a half bottle of the 2006 Canon to enjoy recently as the smaller format lends itself to a quicker maturation. I am also a fan of the 375 ml –